CDT SOBO guide

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Unofficial CDT Southbound Guide for 2024
by Soggy Whopper (aka Soggy)
Version 2.0
With Contributions from Oracle on:
Creede, Pinedale, & Super Butte Alternates
1

  1. BIG PICTURE—IS A SOUTHBOUND HIKE FOR ME?
    So you (maybe) want to thru-hike the CDT southbound. Congratulations, you (might) be an intelligent
    human being, unlike all those northbounders who waddle into southern Colorado in June and realize they
    aren’t having very much fun crossing freezing icy streams and deep snow.
    This is probably a good time to mention that these are a compendium of my subjective opinions on what I
    encountered along the CDT and how I thought through decisions. If something I say elicits strong anger
    within you, please, take a deep breath and remind yourself that this is a free, unofficial hiking guide written
    by a man named after a cheeseburger.
    Now then, there are three real options for thru-hiking the trail: a northbound hike, a southbound hike, or a
    flip flop. The optimal option for you depends on a few factors: (1) your individual life obligations; (2) the
    snowpack in the San Juan mountains of southern Colorado versus the snowpack in northern Montana; (3)
    whether you are philosophically open to flip flopping. As we analyze these considerations, keep in mind
    that you have a fairly aggressive weather window to manage whether you hike north or south.
    If you are hiking northbound, you are trying to get to Canada before October 1, which is the “rule of thumb”
    day to beat, after which you may get caught by a problematic snowstorm if you keep pushing north deeper
    into October. If you are hiking southbound, you want to get through the San Juan mountains of southern
    Colorado to the northern border of New Mexico prior to October 1 for the same reason. These
    considerations are real, and failure to respect the changing seasons can have deadly consequences. You only
    have to read up on Otter (RIP) who died in 2015 after getting trapped by snow in a privy in northern New
    Mexico and whose body was found after the spring thaw, to understand how serious this can be.
    This means that whether you are hiking northbound or southbound, you have an incentive to start as early
    in the year as possible. Unfortunately for northbounders, the earlier they start, the more likely they will
    need to skip the Gila River middle fork (low route) in southern New Mexico, which is a top 5 highlight of
    the trail, due to high water levels. Furthermore, early northbounders face the risk that the snowpack in
    southern Colorado will force them to flip north to the Great Basin in Wyoming or up to Canada to then start
    hiking southbound. For southbounders, we also want to start as early as possible while avoiding the worst
    of the snow in Glacier Park and northern Montana.
    The snowpack can vary dramatically from year to year, but usually there is more snow in the San Juans of
    southern Colorado than up north in Montana. If you have your heart set on hiking the CDT in 2024, your
    best chance of having an enjoyable and successful thru-hike is to maintain flexibility and monitor the
    snowpack in both Colorado and Montana to make sure your start date is optimized to avoid as much snow
    as possible.
    This website is the best (or at least my favorite) resource to monitor snowpack in northern Montana and
    southern Colorado. The bottom graphic on the front page is the most useful to you as you determine your
    start date southbound. It shows the snowpack in Glacier National Park and the Bob Marshall wilderness for
    all years from 2004 to 2024. My buddy Honey Bum completed a southbound thru-hike in 2022, the highest
    snowpack year on record for northern Montana. He began his hike on June 14 and had a good bit of snow,
    and had to use his microspikes and ice axe a lot for his first few weeks on trail. He let me know that if a
    given year had northern Montana snowpack levels similar to 2022, the best time to start the trail would
    have been sometime between June 19 and July 1. Fortunately for me, 2023 was a very low snowpack year
    in northern Montana. I started hiking south on June 14 and never had to use my ice axe or microspikes. Yes,
    there were a few snowy traverses to do, but it was all eminently doable with moderate risk. That risk was
    2
    worth it to me, as I was very grateful to have a couple extra weeks to get through southern Colorado before
    October 1.
    a. Weather Considerations
    Another factor that plays into your decision of whether to hike southbound or northbound is how nice the
    weather will be throughout your hike. Northbounders cover most of the trail outside optimal weather
    conditions. Southbounders tend to hit much more of the trail when weather conditions are optimal.
    b. Social Considerations
    This is the one area where northbounders have an advantage over southbounders. There are usually many
    more northbound hikers than “pure” southbounders (aka non-flip floppers). It is not entirely clear to me
    why, perhaps the human capacity for mimetic desire is responsible (see the work of philosopher René Girard
    for more info). Whatever the reason, if there is above-average snowpack in the San Juan mountains, then
    you can rest assured that many northbounders will flip up to Canada anyway. Between the southbounders
    and the flip floppers, there will be plenty of people to hike with if you aren’t too weird, and are willing to
    go-with-the flow on the alternate routes your hiking companions wish to take.
    c. Flip Flopping – Briefly
    There is something magical about hiking in one direction continuously. But if you are open to flip flopping,
    there is no denying that you will have a better chance of completing the trail in one calendar year. For
    southbounders, it is popular and eminently doable to knock out the desert sections of the trail in April and
    May prior to starting your hike south from Canada. This means hiking through the New Mexico desert in
    April/May, and then skipping up to the Great Basin and hiking the Wyoming desert in May/early June. The
    advantage of hiking the desert earlier in the season is that the desert will be cooler during the day, and good
    water will be easier to find. If you want a border monument finish, consider hiking north from Lordsburg
    rather than the Mexican border, so that you can later hike the southernmost section of the trail southbound
    to get that sexy border monument finishing photo.
    3
  2. PLANNING RESUPPLIES
    So you decided to do the pure southbound hike. Sweet. We will assume that you have your start date picked
    or are closely monitoring the snowpack to make a good decision on timing. The first thing to get a handle
    on is whether you are going to be mailing yourself lots of boxes or doing most of your resupplies on-trail.
    This mostly depends on how wedded you are to eating healthily, how obscure your footwear of choice is,
    and whether you are willing to hang out in a town for a few days if you miss the post-office open hours or
    something gets screwed up. For me, if a town has a grocery store or good general store I did not usually
    mail myself a box with food, but I did sometimes mail myself fresh shoes. I have highlighted the towns
    where I thought boxes were a good idea in yellow. NOTE, it’s wise to mail your boxes to (1) Looking Glass
    Hostel in East Glacier, and (2) Benchmark Ranch before starting the trail.
    Southbound Mile
    No.
    Town Name Important
    Amenities
    Resupply Thoughts
    GLACIER NATIONAL PARK
    Mile 0 East Glacier, MT
    Looking Glass
    Basecamp Hostel.
    Bring two
    (no hitch
    required).
    resupplies: first
    to get you from
    the border back
    to East Glacier,
    and then from
    East Glacier to
    either the
    Benchmark
    Ranch/Augusta,
    or to Lincoln if
    you can push
    that far.
    Looking Glass
    Basecamp
    Hostel is the
    best and its not
    close. Luna and
    her husband run
    it and she is
    awesome. Check
    them out on
    Instagram and
    give Luna a call
    before you get
    there.
    Mile 35 (if starting
    at Waterton)
    Mile 27.7 (if
    starting at Chief
    Mountain)
    Many Glacier
    Campground, MT
    (no hitch
    required).
    Great for grabbing
    snacks, but not a
    great resupply.
    Mile 89.1 Two Medicine
    Campground, MT
    (no hitch
    required).
    Great for grabbing
    lunch and snacks;
    can resupply
    sufficiently to get
    back to East
    Glacier.
    Mile 99.6 East Glacier (no
    hitch required).
    (see above) No
    hitch required, trail
    goes straight into
    East Glacier.
    Can leave your
    second resupply
    box at Looking
    Glass Basecamp
    while you hike
    Glacier Park.
    THE BOB MARSHALL WILDERNESS (THE BOB)
    4
    Mile 232 Junction to
    Benchmark Ranch
    (3 extra miles to
    walk to the ranch
    from redline).
    Can mail yourself a
    box to the
    Benchmark Ranch.
    There are very
    specific instructions
    on how to mail the
    box. You do not
    mail the box to the
    ranch itself, and
    you need to give 2-
    3 weeks lead time.
    Instructions here.
    I did not send a
    box here, but
    wish I had.
    Getting into
    Augusta was a
    bit of an
    adventure.
    Optimally, send
    a box to this
    ranch and push
    on to Lincoln
    and stay there
    rather than
    Augusta or the
    Benchmark
    Ranch itself. See
    route description
    for further
    details.
    Mile 232 Augusta, MT (30
    mile hitch) HARD
    hitch from
    trailhead at the
    end of a dirt road.
    Call ahead for
    shuttle, no cell
    service at
    Benchmark ranch.
    Shuttle (if
    available) will be
    listed on Farout
    on the icon for
    town or the
    junction for the
    Benchmark ranch.
    Has General Store
    and RV
    Campground/Motel.
    I resupplied at
    the General
    Store in town.
    Great resupply.
    The Motel is
    great, can tent
    camp in back
    with access to
    RV shower and
    bathroom. Can
    charge devices
    in laundry room.
    Mile 289.7 Lincoln, MT (18
    mile hitch).
    Lots of motels and
    a good local
    grocery store.
    Lincoln Log
    hotel has
    laundry for free,
    which many
    motels in town
    don’t have.
    Going rate for
    two bed room in
    town seems to
    be about $90.
    Great town. Be
    annoying and
    ask locals about
    the Unabomber,
    who lived here
    back in the day.
    Mile 357.8 Helena, MT (16
    mile hitch).
    Big town; very
    spread out and car
    centric. If you are a
    fan of Wal Mart
    resupplies, choose
    lodging close to the
    Wal Mart. The
    Downtown is cool
    but far from Wal
    Mart ☹
    The sushi
    restaurant
    downtown has
    an off-menu all-
    you-can-eat
    option.
    Getting a hitch
    out of town is
    not the easiest.
    Decision Point: (1) Redline, (2) Anaconda Cutoff, or (3) Super Butte Cutoff (aka Big Sky). I did the
    Anaconda cutoff, so that is what I will discuss. The redline is cool I hear, but it’s not a top highlight area
    5
    of the trail, so you don’t have to worry about FOMO if you take the Anaconda cutoff. However, if you
    take Super Butte, yes you’ll skip some of the worst bits of the trail, but you’ll also miss the Anaconda
    Pintler Wilderness, which is beautiful. The Super Butte route is not on FarOut. Here is a Caltopo link to
    one Super Butte route. There may be better routes, but this is the first I found on Google with a search.
    [See Appendix 1 for Oracle’s description of his Super Butte Route]
    ANACONDA CUTOFF
    Mile 430 (distance
    reflects redline to
    Helena + Anaconda
    cutoff route)
    Anaconda, MT
    (no hitch).
    One of the best
    towns on trail.
    Tough road walk
    with small shoulder.
    You hit McDonalds
    right at the north
    side of town.
    Golden arches call
    to you like the
    sirens to Odysseus.
    Great food and
    lodging options.
    The CDTC
    Thru-Hiker Hut
    is better than the
    hostel in my
    opinion. But
    Anaconda does
    not have a great
    outfitter for shoe
    resupply. Butte
    has a good shoe
    store. You can
    hitch to Butte
    from Anaconda
    and back easily.
    Mail new shoes
    here if you
    aren’t feeling a
    hitch over to
    Butte.
    Mile 572.6 (100.6
    miles from
    Anaconda if taking
    cutoff)
    Sula, MT.
    Darby, MT.
    Wisdom, MT.
    A few choices here.
    Wisdom is a harder
    hitch from a less
    traveled road. I did
    this, and would not
    recommend.
    Recommend
    mailing box to Sula,
    or resupplying in
    Darby at the
    grocery store.
    Mile 738.9 Leadore, ID (13.6
    mile hitch).
    Difficult hitch from
    a dirt road fully
    exposed with no
    shade or cover. Call
    ahead the day
    before because no
    service at trailhead
    or for like 15-20
    miles north of
    trailhead. Multiple
    shuttle drivers listed
    on junction in
    Farout. Jen was
    awesome.
    I sent a box to
    the stage shop,
    but was
    unnecessary. The
    store has
    developed a
    fantastic hiker
    resupply.
    Mustang Inn
    was great for
    bunk room
    upstairs.
    Mile 841.5 Lima, MT (15
    mile hitch).
    Hard hitch. Call the
    Motel in town for a
    shuttle ride. No
    Send a box to
    this town. Post
    office is best bet.
    There is one
    motel to stay in
    town. It is, shall
    6
    reliable Verizon
    service at the
    highway tunnel, but
    there is AT&T
    there. Call from the
    hills before you
    drop down if you
    have Verizon.
    we say, one of
    the more
    “authentic”
    motel
    experiences on
    trail. It has a
    bunk room you
    have to ask
    about or they
    won’t mention
    it.
    Decision Point: After leaving Lima, you decide whether to take the red line 94 miles to the West
    Yellowstone junction (hitch required), or to take Mack’s Inn cutoff (69.2 miles) no hitch required. Half
    of the Mack’s Inn trail is cross country, but it’s not too difficult if you navigate around the beaver dam
    (see route description). Additionally, if you intend to transit through Yellowstone National Park without
    stealth camping, you need to call the West Yellowstone ranger station, or hitch over there to get a
    camping permit for at least one night, unless you want to spend $500 on a room at the Old Faithful
    Lodge. Old Faithful Ranger Station does not provide permits. I took Mack’s Inn cutoff.
    MACK’S INN CUTOFF
    Mile 911 (taking
    Mack’s Inn Cutoff)
    Mack’s Inn (no
    hitch).
    Town has 2 parts. I
    stayed in the north
    part of town near
    the grocery store at
    Sawtelle RV park.
    Above average RV
    Park.
    Grocery store
    was fantastic for
    resupply.
    WYOMING/ YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK
    Mile 987.2 (38.7
    miles from Mack’s
    Inn grocery store)
    Old Faithful
    Village (no hitch).
    Not a great
    resupply, but lots of
    snacks and lunch
    options. Second
    floor of Old
    Faithful Inn is open
    to the public and
    has great seated and
    shaded viewing
    platform for Old
    Faithful eruptions.
    Can send a box
    to the post office
    here…but not
    necessary.
    If you are
    someone who
    likes risky
    business. Can
    try to sneak a
    shower in the
    public
    bathrooms on
    the second floor
    of the Old
    Faithful Inn.
    Depends Any campsite
    between Old
    Faithful Village
    and Grant’s
    Village (no hitch).
    No resupply here,
    but included
    because it’s a
    National Park so a
    permit is required.
    Mile 1011.7 Grant’s Village
    (7ish mile hitch).
    This area is like a
    maze. Good idea
    to load up a
    Google maps of
    the area when you
    Not a great
    resupply, but can
    get good snacks at
    general store and
    couple options for
    meals.
    The Grant
    Village dining
    room has same
    breakfast buffet
    food as the Old
    Faithful Inn.
    Purrrrty good.
    Campground has
    $10 tent sites for
    the win. Note.
    This is outside
    of Yellowstone
    Park, so don’t
    7
    have service
    before getting
    here.
    Consider
    mailing yourself
    to this
    need permit to
    stay here.
    shoes town.
    OLD CDT ROUTE
    Mile 16.1 via OLD
    CDT Route. (75
    miles south from
    Grant’s Village)
    Dubois, WY (big
    hitch).
    Good (but
    expensive) grocery
    store in town.
    Cowboy cafe one of
    the best restaurants
    on trail.
    Staying at the
    KOA RV park is
    the best option
    for thrifty hikers.
    Need to decide
    whether you are
    going to
    Pinedale or
    skipping
    Pinedale.
    WIND RIVER RANGE (with knapsack Col and Cirque of the Towers Alts)
    Decision Point: You have a few decisions here. (1) Do you take the Teton alternate route? This route is
    not on Farout and the logistics are difficult by CDT standards. I did not do this, but heard it was
    spectacular. However, if you are hiking with people, they may not want to do this with you. (2) Do you
    do either or both of the Wind River alternate routes on Farout? I did both the Knapsack Col and Cirque
    of the Tower Alternate routes, and would unhesitatingly recommend doing both. (3) Do you take the
    Skurka or Allan Dixon high routes? These are not on Farout, and basically connect the Knapsack and
    Cirque of the Tower routes with a section of cross country. They are very hard to do logistically within
    a CDT thru-hike. (4) Do you resupply at Pinedale and/or the Big Sandy Lodge, or do you push all the
    way from Dubois to Lander? I recommend stopping in Pinedale, even though it complicates your
    logistics, and the route to do so is not on Farout. [See Appendix 2 for Oracle’s Description of his
    route to Pinedale].
    These distances should help your decision-making:
    Dubois via Old CDT to Knapsack Col junction is 66.7 miles and 9,263 feet of gain.
    Knapsack Col is 13.5 miles and 3,753 feet of gain.
    Redline between Knapsack Col and Cirque is 31.5 miles and 5,708 feet of gain.
    Cirque of Towers alt is 21.5 miles and 4,839.9 feet of gain.
    Redline south of the cirque to Lander is 27.3 miles and 3,565.9 feet of gain.
    If you do both alts, then you have 160.5 miles and 27,128 feet of gain between the Dubois and Lander.
    This is why Pinedale is popular.
    Mile 1253.1 Lander, WY (35
    mile hitch).
    Great town with
    lots of good places
    to stay, places to
    eat, resupply
    options, and
    outfitters. RV park
    on the south side of
    town has good
    cheap cabins.
    No need to mail
    a box here.
    THE GREAT BASIN
    8
    Mile 1255 South Pass City,
    WY (no hitch).
    Historic mining
    village with tours.
    Little store sells
    soda, but no good
    resupply.
    Mile 1260 Atlantic City, WY
    (1.3 mile walk off
    trail).
    Good food and
    good lodging, but I
    skipped this since
    it’s only a few miles
    outside Lander.
    Mile 1373.7 Rawlins, WY (no
    hitch).
    Good hiker town.
    Multiple grocery
    stores, and lodging
    options. Daily bus
    to Denver and back.
    No need to send
    a box.
    Econolodge is
    near grocery
    stores and has
    hiker discount.
    But a bit of a
    walk into town.
    Mile 1455.8 Encampment and
    Riverside, WY
    (13 miles hitch).
    Great little town.
    Better lodging
    options in
    Riverside; little
    general store there
    for a resupply to get
    you to Steamboat in
    a pinch.
    I sent a box to
    the Encampment
    Post office,
    wasn’t super
    necessary
    because of the
    Riverside
    General Store.
    COLORADO
    Mile 1539.4 Steamboat, CO
    (20 mile hitch)
    Great town has
    everything, but
    expensive. The free
    bus can get you
    around.
    Get new shoes
    here by mailing
    them to yourself
    or from one of
    the many
    outfitters.
    Decision Point: Do you (1) hike through Rocky Mountain National Park on the red line, or (2) take the
    on-trail shortcut, or (3) take the road walk into town. There are a few considerations here. Firstly, a bear
    canister is possibly required. Unclear to me whether a bear canister is required if you hike through, but
    don’t camp in the RMNP. If you do camp, then you need a canister. You can rent a canister in town…but
    this is really dumb for southbounders because you have to hitch into town, get the canister, then hitch
    out, and then hike back into town via the redline. I roadwalked into town and skipped the RMNP. There
    is also a shortcut trail on Farout, but I couldn’t be bothered to take it.
    Mile 1632.4 Grand Lake, CO
    (no hitch).
    Great town, has
    everything,
    expensive.
    Mile 1685.7 Winter
    Park/Fraser Co.
    (12 mile hitch to
    WP , and a bit
    longer to Fraser).
    Great towns. I may
    be biased because
    I’ve lived here. Can
    resupply at
    Safeway. Eat at
    Sharky’s across
    from the Safeway.
    If you need to
    get to Denver or
    the airport in a
    pinch. There is a
    shuttle service
    called “Home
    James” you can
    hit up. Bit pricy,
    but reliable. Y ou
    Well, you’ve
    now experienced
    a bit of life
    ridgewalking the
    high alpine.
    Colorado will
    have lots of this
    on the redline.
    Time to get real
    9
    can also take
    Amtrak into
    Denver’s Union
    Station from the
    Fraser stop, and
    then take light
    rail to the
    airport. The
    Amtrack prices
    vary. Light rail
    is $10.
    with yourself
    and decide if
    you need to take
    some lower alts.
    Long way to go.
    Decision: Silverthorne Alt or Redline? Below is the redline version because that’s what I did. Silverthorne
    is lower elevation and easier, but you’re on your own with that. I hear that Silverthorne has a pretty good
    party hostel though if you like to let your hair down.
    Mile 1759.2 Breckenridge
    (free bus, no
    hitch).
    Free bus runs into
    town from right
    next to trailhead. I
    think every 15
    minutes. Great
    resupply options.
    No box. Stay at the Bivvi
    Hostel if you
    like social
    hostels. Very
    nice. Fireside
    Inn is good
    alternative if you
    don’t want the
    hostel
    experience.
    Mile 1774.6 Copper Mountain,
    CO (no hitch).
    Not good resupply,
    but great spot to
    grab a meal. It’s the
    base of a ski resort.
    Eat at Camp
    Hale if its open,
    if not you’re
    stuck with
    Starbucks.
    Don’t be a
    goober and stay
    the night here.
    Keep going ya
    filthy animal.
    Mile 1794.2 Leadville, CO (9
    mile hitch).
    Great town. Full
    resupply. Get a
    Melanzana (aka
    Melly) if you can.
    You probably can’t
    because store
    appointments are
    required to be
    scheduled ahead of
    time.
    If heroing, ask to
    be dropped off
    downtown to
    grab a meal,
    then walk back
    towards the
    Safeway for
    resupply. Good
    cheap dispensary
    along the way.
    Hitch out of
    town can be
    tricky, walk far
    enough past
    Safeway that
    you’re on the
    correct road
    before hitching.
    I didn’t stay
    here, but looks
    like Inn the
    Clouds is a good
    hostel.
    Mile 1831.4 Twin Lakes, CO
    (no hitch).
    Great town. General
    store is above
    average for a
    Consider
    shortcutting the
    Camping along
    lake is a very
    10
    general store. Very
    cute and scenic.
    lake by going
    through town.
    social
    experience.
    Decisions: (1) Collegiate East or Collegiate West. Collegiate West is the redline; it has much more
    elevation and is more scenic. Collegiate East is a good option for shit weather, or if you’re a bit toasted
    by the trail. You’ll be in a tree tunnel though with Collegiate East and reconnect with the redline at Salida
    (I think). Collegiate East is not on Farout, so you’ll have to use another app. Note, if you do the shortcut
    to bypass the lakes, then you’ll have to backtrack a bit to get to the junction to take Collegiate East. (2)
    If taking Collegiate West there is a low route and a high route. The redline is the high route and much
    prettier, but exposed to weather.
    Mile 1872.2 Buena Vista, CO
    (19 mile hitch).
    Great town. Full
    resupply. Expensive
    lodging if you want
    a room unless you
    stay at the RV park,
    which has cabins
    and bunkhouse for
    reasonable price.
    No box.
    Mile 1914.8 Salida, CO (good
    distance hitch).
    One of my favorite
    towns on trail. Has
    everything.
    No box for food.
    But get new
    shoes here. Easy
    to get Altras in
    town.
    Best place to
    stay is the
    Simple Lodge
    and Hostel.
    Right
    downtown, chill
    vibes, and
    reasonably
    priced.
    Decisions: (1) Redline through San Juans; (2) Green Line the Great Divide Bike Route; (3) Brown Line
    Creed Cutoff. I did the redline because I reached here by the second week of September. I was rewarded
    for my punctuality with lots of snow and storms, but the snow was only 3 inches deep and melted by
    afternoon. Below info reflects a decision to do the redline. [See Appendix 3 for Oracle’s Description
    of his Creede Route]
    Mile 2014.1 Lake City, CO (17
    mile hitch).
    Great town. It has a
    general store on the
    far side of town
    from most lodging.
    General Store is
    pretty good.
    No box required
    if you’re not too
    picky.
    River Fork RV
    park was
    awesome and
    has bunk house.
    They will shuttle
    you to and from
    trailhead. They
    close by late
    September.
    Decision point: Bailout option Silverton. You will be above treeline until you get to Pagosa Springs. If
    there is bad weather, consider bailing out into Silverton. There are a few options of where to do it around
    mile 2049. Can take a steam engine narrow gauge train from Silverton to Durango. Durango is a cool
    college town, much bigger than Silverton.
    Mile 2128.4 Pagosa Springs,
    CO (far hitch).
    Good Town. Wall
    Mart is far outside
    town, but there is a
    bus.
    No box needed
    if you go to Wal
    Mart or are
    willing to shop
    at a Natural
    Grocers (lol).
    Some cheapish
    hotels.
    Dispensaries and
    outfitters both
    exceptional in
    town. “The
    11
    Rose” is good
    for breakfast and
    centrally
    located.
    Mile 2195.3 Chama, NM (far
    hitch).
    Good Town. No box needed.
    Definitely pay a
    visit to Tumble
    On Outfitters
    run by
    Tumbleweed
    and Janis Joplin
    out of a shipping
    container. They
    make packs and
    other gear. Rad
    dudes.
    The laundromat
    is a goddamn
    hike out of town.
    Would
    recommend
    Chama Trails
    Motel, more
    pricy, but you
    can do laundry
    unlike some
    other motels.
    Decision: Ghost Ranch Alt or Redline. I would highly recommend the Ghost Ranch alt. They have cheap
    tent sites, all you can eat buffet meals you need to reserve in advance (call ahead). They have a little store
    that is worse than any gas station resupply, but could do in a real pinch to get you to Cuba if you love
    peanuts, pringles and tuna. I would mail a box here or hitch into Abiquiu (still have no idea how to
    pronounce this town). The Ghost Ranch is a spiritual and artistic retreat where Georgia O’keefe lived
    and painted. If you have any degree of cultural refinement whatsoever, you will appreciate this beautiful
    and historic place. Plus, you drop down lower, so it is warmer and you get your first taste of “real” desert
    in NM.
    Mile 2,287.3 (Alt
    from north junction
    to the Ranch is 14
    miles)
    Ghost Ranch, NM
    See above. (no hitch).
    Box may be
    needed, see
    above.
    Mile 2,347.4 Cuba, NM. (no
    hitch) Watch out
    for dog attacks on
    walk into town.
    Highly advise
    pepper spray, bear
    spray, or a good
    old rock in your
    hand. There is
    apparently an old
    CDT route that
    bypasses the dogs.
    Check out Ley
    Maps.
    No box needed. The Korean food
    truck is amazing,
    even by big city
    standards. The
    Gas station right
    where the trail
    goes into town
    has great
    Mexican food
    and opens
    suuuuper early if
    you’re like that.
    The dispensary
    will let you
    camp in their
    weed field.
    Alternatively, if
    you’re lame, you
    can stay at one
    of many motels.
    Del Prado is
    pricey but really
    well run and
    great and next to
    the grocery
    store. If you ask,
    they’ll let you
    do laundry free.
    Mile 2,451.5 Grants, NM (no
    hitch).
    Grants is a bit run
    down. I have lived
    in inner cities, and
    it still got a bit
    weird, so stay safe
    and try to hike with
    Best resupply is
    at Walmart.
    Getting there is a
    psychedelic trip.
    Advise walking
    over the railroad
    Heard good
    things about the
    Lava Flow
    hostel. It
    supposedly has
    bikes, but I
    12
    Mile 2,560.8 Mile 2,681 (ish) this
    assumes you are
    doing the Gila high
    route. Low route is
    a bit harder and
    longer, and soggier.
    Mile 2,817.7 Mile 2,891 Pie Town, NM (no
    hitch).
    Doc Campbells
    Outpost (no
    hitch).
    Silver City (no
    hitch) one of the
    best towns on the
    whole trail.
    Lordsburg (no
    hitch). Call Tim
    Sharpe to set up
    your ride back to
    Lordsburg or El
    Paso if you
    haven’t done so
    already. He may
    also let you crash
    at his house in El
    Paso. Pay him a
    big donation, as
    it’s a long drive
    for him, and he
    stocks the water
    caches. By a lot, I
    someone. Best to
    stay on redline
    when going into
    town until you get
    to the old route 66
    going east-west.
    Cool teeny tiny
    town. Hope you
    like pie cuz your
    food options are
    otherwise limited.
    SEND Last pair of
    here!
    shoes Can mail a box here
    for good measure,
    but you can make it
    to Silver City with
    stuff from here
    pretty easily.
    Full amenities and
    resupply. No box
    needed.
    Good grocery store,
    no need for a box.
    tracks as
    opposed to
    taking the
    flyway with no
    shoulder.
    Mail a box to the
    Toaster House if
    that is still a
    thing. Or to Post
    Office if it’s not.
    As an alternative
    can resupply in
    Reserve, NM.
    But you have to
    hitch to do that.
    And I retired
    from hitchhiking
    after Chama.
    Try to get here
    early so you can
    figure out which
    of several RV
    parks to stay at
    and maybe get
    one with hot
    springs. I got in
    at dark, so I just
    stayed at the one
    I found.
    Oddly no hostel
    in this town. So
    grab a hotel or
    AirBNB.
    Another town
    that its best to
    have some
    company to
    walk through.
    Was approached
    by multiple
    shifty characters
    while solo.
    stayed at the
    Motel 6 nearer
    to Wal Mart.
    The legendary
    Toaster House
    hostel, as of this
    writing, is open
    for hikers and
    bikers, but
    nobody runs it.
    Boxes are left
    right inside the
    door by the post
    office. Leave a
    donation!
    Doc Campbell’s
    hours are worth
    checking out to
    make sure you
    can get your
    box.
    Definitely a
    good town to
    take your last
    zero day.
    Econolodge is
    great and across
    the street from
    the good
    restaurant in
    town.
    13
    mean over $150.
    Seriously, the
    northbounders pay
    $175.
    Mile 2,975 Mexico- u dun.
    14
  3. HOW TO NAVIGATE & LEY MAPS
    I don’t pretend to know all the potentially badass stuff you’ve done, but speaking for myself, I had a bit of
    a learning curve to properly navigate on the CDT. If you have hiked the PCT and the AT, but not much else,
    chances are that like me, you have/had no idea what you are doing. Fear not, we will get you up to speed
    here. Oh yeah, it’s really dumb to just hike the redline and refuse to consider any alternate routes. I won’t
    bother trying to convince you of that because once you have hiked a bit of the CDT, you’ll get it.
    The first thing to do is pay for and download the Farout App (formerly Guthook) and the CDT package to
    your phone. If they doubled the price, it would still be worth it in my eyes. Then make sure you download
    the maps you need for offline access. To do this you need to do the following:
  4. 2. 3. Go to the “store” icon on the bottom left, and open the relevant map section.
    Then go to the “more” icon at the bottom right and click “settings.”
    Then click “manage downloads” and click on all of the 4 maps: open topo, thunderforest, USGS
    National, and USGS Satellite.
    Downloading these maps will let you switch your maps while offline. You do this by going to the “more”
    icon then clicking “settings” then clicking “online” or “offline” maps depending whether you have cell
    service/wifi or not.
    Switching maps is helpful because often a trail or road will appear on one set of maps but not the others.
    While you are in this “manage downloads” area, it’s also a good idea to refresh the comments and trail route
    updates. So click those as well from time to time. It should happen automatically, but sometimes does not
    for mysterious reasons. The comments have great information on water, campsites, blowdowns, and towns,
    often on random intersection icons. Route updates can help you avoid construction or fire closures and
    reroutes. Shoutout to the 2022 SOBO thru-hiker Lilian for being the GOAT of commenting helpful
    information. You can trust a Lilian comment to be accurate and comprehensive.
    Once you have maps, you need to make sure your Farout map trail distances are oriented for southbound
    hiking. You do this by doing the following:
  5. 2. 3. Go to the “store” icon on the bottom left, and open the relevant map section.
    Then go to the “more” icon at the bottom right and click “settings”
    Then go to “trail direction” and toggle to southbound.
    The final thing to note regarding Farout is how to create custom routes. This is especially helpful if trying
    to determine elevation or distance for an alternate route off the redline. You do this by doing the following:
  6. 2. 3. 4. Click on the icon with a crossed hammer and wrench. It is not along the bottom menu items, but is
    in the vertically oriented menu below the map button and elevation profile view button.
    Once you have clicked that, a bunch more menu items should pop up, including a “create a route”
    button. Click that.
    Zoom in onto the exact location on your map where you want to drop a pin. You drop a pin by
    holding your finger on the screen for a little longer than if you were just normally tapping
    something. You will see a red pin drop once you are successful.
    Then find the end of your desired route and drop a pin there as well. A yellow line with directional
    arrows should then automatically populate on the fastest route possible between the two pins you
    have dropped.
    15
    If you tap on a pin, it will show you the total elevation and distance of your route. If you tap on the mountain
    icon, that normally gives you the elevation profile of the redline, it will instead provide you with an
    elevation profile of your chosen route. This will be super helpful to you.
    It’s sad but true that Farout can glitch from time to time, so best practice to have multiple navigation apps
    to help you out in a pinch. Some of the more popular ones are Caltopo, Gaia, and Avenza. I used Gaia, and
    it saved my bacon a few times, but I had to pay for it and it wasn’t awesome.
    Looking back, I wish I had just used Farout and the Avenza app. Avenza is free and there are two free CDT
    resources there: (1) the CDTC uploads map sets to there that you can use, and (2) the old Ley Maps are
    uploaded there as well.
    The CDTC Maps are not worth downloading if you already have Farout, but the Ley Maps are very worth
    having.
    What are the Ley Maps? Well, a long, long time ago when Soggy was in elementary school and smartphones
    did not exist, this guy named Ley made a set of paper maps of the CDT with lots of alternative routes, and
    provided them for free via a CD that he would mail to you if you emailed him asking for it. Rad. Ley has
    lots of shortcuts, long cuts, scenic routes, bail outs, and cool spots to check out. If you are into exploring a
    bit and not trying to just slam this trail as fast as possible, Ley Maps are a great resource for you. If you
    don’t like hiking and want to find flat roadwalks similar to your local gym’s treadmill, then the Ley Maps
    are also for you.
    How do you actually get the Ley Maps?
  7. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Go to your phone’s app store and download Avenza Maps.
    Open the app. At the bottom of your screen should be a “store” icon. Click that.
    Once you’ve clicked it at the top should read “Find a Map” click the search box below that.
    This is important! Then, before typing anything in, click the button “keywords.” Now you are ready
    to search.
    Search by typing “CDT Montana” or “CDT Wyoming” etc. This should make the right maps pop
    up. The Ley Maps will have the name “Jonathan Ley” in the title. This is helpful to avoid
    accidentally downloading the CDTC uploads. Download for offline use.
    Once you are ready to use them, go to the “my maps” icon at the bottom of your screen. If you are
    then located “on” one of the maps you have downloaded, a helpful notation will inform you which
    map you are located on.
    These are essentially PDFs that have been coordinated with GPS. Therefore as you move, a blue dot
    indicating your location will move along the scanned paper relief maps.
  8. TRIP REPORTS
    GLACIER PARK
    One does not simply start the CDT. As with all things CDT, there are options. The two most popular starting
    points are the Chief Mountain Border Crossing, or the Waterton start. If you are doing the Waterton start,
    then you need to get to Canada and figure it out from there. Good luck to you. If you are an early SOBO,
    just know that you will be hiking the high line trail, which has a few high traverses that can be sketchy in
    16
    the snow. If you’re not confident swinging that ice axe around, don’t be the first person to do it. Let some
    other person kick in the footsteps.
    Let’s assume that like me, you don’t want to deal with Canada and the high line trail, so you need to get to
    East Glacier, Montana with all your stuff. There are a few popular ways to do it. There is an Amtrak station
    in East Glacier, so the train is a popular way to go. It has the advantage of incredibly lax security. Do you
    have a compressed gas container and an axe? No problem on the train! You can also bring a cheap disposable
    Styrofoam cooler with food and booze, so there’s that as well. I took the train, and though I am a bit
    introverted, even I managed to make friends by slinging free drinks.
    The drawback of being on a train is that it’s hard to keep an eye on all your stuff. Keep in mind you have
    your pack (which has a full supply of food inside), and then another food box for your resupply heading
    into the Bob, and a cooler with yummy stuff. Try to board early and put your stuff where you can see it.
    Even better to not do this part solo. Even super better is to mail your resupply box ahead of time to Looking
    Glass Base Camp so you just have your pack and cooler to worry about on the train.
    Just know if you’re from Europe or Asia, that the United States has a weak spot when it comes to our
    passenger rail infrastructure. You may think we’re super high tech here, but alas, a ride from Chicago to
    East Glacier takes 30 hours. If you’re flying in internationally, I would recommend Minneapolis or Seattle
    as flight destinations and then taking the train to East Glacier from those cities to avoid earth-shattering
    boredom. The ride from Minneapolis is not particularly scenic, not sure about the ride from Seattle, it’s
    probably gorgeous.
    But if you don’t like trains for some reason, you can also rent a car and drop it off at Kalispell, or you can
    fly into Kalispell. If you’re flying, remember that you cannot check your extra battery pack onto your
    checked luggage, you need to carry it on. I’ll say it again, you should mail a box ahead to Looking Glass
    Base Camp. If you’re itching to hitch, you can get to East Glacier from Kalispell that way, or you can call
    the Looking Glass Base Camp hostel and ask for the number of a shuttle driver who is actively driving
    people. In small towns, a bunch of people start shuttling, and then stop doing it for various personal reasons,
    so it’s best to get current information on who the active drivers are and their rates.
    Once you’re at the Looking Glass Base Camp hostel, unless you are super early or late, you will start
    meeting other hikers who are doing the same stuff. The hike is starting to get real, so exciting!
    Now for the complicated part. Glacier National Park, like most national parks, requires that you have a
    permit in advance of any camping in the park. If you are international, here is a quick primer on land access
    and camping in the United States. Firstly, there is no “right to roam” on private land. Private land does not
    need to be marked, but usually is signed with “no trespassing” signs or barbed wire. There is lots of barbed
    wire on public land too, which functions to separate licensed cattle grazing areas, so the presence or absence
    of barbed wire is not particularly helpful as a clue to the nature of land ownership. The best source to
    differentiate public from private land boundaries are hunting apps such as OnX hunt, but I would not bother
    purchasing this for your thruhike. Trespassing on private land is considered both a criminal and civil offense
    in most jurisdictions. Enforcement by landowners and law enforcement varies wildly. However, there is a
    vast amount of public land in the United States, but the public’s right to access and camp on those lands
    differ.
    We have National Parks, these are run by a bureaucratic agency called the National Parks Service. This
    bureaucracy is super uptight about rules. The parks typically feature a bunch of clueless car-bound tourists,
    and its generally a pain in the ass to be there during high traffic periods. Then we have National Forests.
    These are way more chill and run by a different bureaucratic organization entirely. These places have many
    fewer rules and you can access and camp wherever you want. It’s similar with BLM (Bureau of Land
    17
    Management) land. Then you have Wilderness Areas. These are national forest lands that are kept in a
    primitive wild state. They have no roads, only footpaths, and no motors are permitted. Staff don’t even use
    chainsaws to clear deadfall; they have to use hand tools. You can usually camp anywhere you want here
    too, but sometimes not. Fortunately for hikers, unlike national parks, wilderness areas rarely enforce their
    camping restrictions due to lack of funding for rangers, so you can basically do whatever you like here as
    well. Almost all of the CDT is on public land, and you rarely have to worry about where you camp. Paved
    road walks, and National Parks, are the biggest exceptions to this rule of thumb. The roadwalks that pass
    through private or tribal lands are fairly trivial to figure out with the bare minimum of foresight.
    Ipso facto, the only places where you really need to plan ahead to camp are in National Parks. The CDT
    redline goes through the following National Parks: Glacier, Yellowstone, and Rocky Mountain National
    Park. Glacier is by far the most annoying to figure out.
    There are three ways to get permits for camping in Glacier: (1) you plan ahead and use the recreation.gov
    website to reserve your tent sites; (2) you obtain walk up permits at Two Medicine or St. Mary’s; (3) you
    show up at Looking Glass Base Camp and try to talk your way onto someone else’s permit.
    You should know that the recreation.gov permit system is a hot mess. I spent about an hour trying to figure
    it out, and couldn’t figure out how to get sites that were good distances apart, so I gave up and figured I
    would do walk-up permits. There are two main problems with the system (1) the system is optimized for
    people who are hiking between 8-15 miles per day, and it takes a ranger to override the system in-person to
    let you do big days; and (2) if you are starting early enough in the season, even on a low snow year, a bunch
    of perfectly placed sites will not be “officially” available to you because they are “summer only”. In my
    opinion, if you start early (meaning it’s still chilly and some snow remains on the ground), you are better
    off obtaining permits in person unless you want to do the roughly 100 miles of the park super slowly. Some
    people love the slow roll. I envy your patience.
    However, once June 19th rolls around, obtaining permits in-person often transforms into a time-wasting
    fiasco because the warmer weather will draw many more non-CDT backpackers who also need walk-up
    permits.
    Here is how I would do the Park, if I were doing it all over again and did not care about being a pure SOBO.
    Day 1- show up in East Glacier, and chill out at Looking Glass.
    Day 2 – In the morning, around 7 or 8 AM hitch from East Glacier up to Marias Pass, and hike back down
    to East Glacier. This completes the southernmost 15 miles of the park. You get to do your first hitch, and
    don’t have to worry about getting any permits.
    Day 3- In the morning, start hiking north from East Glacier to Two Medicine. Once there, line up at the
    Ranger office to get permits for a hike north from Two Medicine to the Chief Mountain border crossing. If
    you are trying to do big miles, make sure to look super legit, so the Ranger will override the system and let
    you do big days. This section is only 11 miles, so you can keep going north through the park same day, or
    you can hitch from Two Medicine back to East Glacier after sorting out your permits, and start hiking north
    the next day. Let’s assume you have a miserable wait for permits, so you end up picking the latter option.
    Day 4- In the early morning, shuttle or hitch back to Two Medicine and begin hiking north towards the
    Chief Mountain border crossing. If you want an early start, its best to pay for a shuttle rather than hitch.
    People start successfully hitching rides around 8:00 AM. Y ou only have 81.6 miles of park left to do.
    Day 5-7 Keep hiking north to Chief Mountain border crossing, and then hitch from the border back to East
    Glacier.
    18
    Now that the logistics are out of the way, what is the park like? Well, it’s gorgeous and the trails are great!
    You’ll have one big pass to climb every 20 miles or so. One thing to keep in mind is that there is a tunnel
    bypass for the first pass south of the border (Red Gap Pass), but the tunnel bypass usually opens in early
    July, so don’t take the bypass until you know for certain it is open.
    Also, when you get to Many Glacier, there is a really cool looking old hotel (the Many Glacier Hotel) where
    you may find a reasonably priced meal in a fancy dining room just off the trail.
    EAST GLACIER TO THE BENCHMARK.
    So ya did Glacier, congrats! Hopefully you didn’t do it so fast that you messed yourself up physically. If
    you did, take a zero in East Glacier because this next push is tough. It’s not that there are physically
    demanding climbs. Rather, this section is memorable for the ridiculous amount of stream crossings, the
    cold, paranoia about Grizzly bears, and the people riding horses while packing enough heat to invade
    Canada.
    One sight I will never forget is watching the couple of poor fools who brought bear canisters try to fit
    enough food into them to make it through to the Benchmark, or even worse, to Lincoln. I don’t think it’s
    possible. Everyone else had an Ursack XL or Ursack XXL. If you don’t know, an Ursack is an expensive
    black Kevlar bag that you can put your food into and tie tightly to a tree so a bear can’t rip it off. Extra
    credit if you get a huge “scent proof” ziplock bag to put inside your Ursack. The normal sized XL should
    be plenty to get you to Benchmark, but if you want to go to Lincoln, it is worth getting the XXL in my
    opinion. If like me, this was your first time hiking in Grizzly country, don’t underestimate the amount of
    fear this will cause you. Grizzly bears are larger and more temperamentally aggressive than black bears.
    Whereas black bears are usually easy to haze away, Grizzly are more likely to match aggression with
    aggression. You definitely want bear spray, everyone has it, but don’t be the only loser with a bear bell. Oh
    yeah, for more extra credit, find a video on Youtube where some old guy will show you how to tie
    supposedly bearproof knots for your Ursack. I didn’t do this, and definitely had knot envy. You will
    probably carry this Ursack south until you pass through the Winds (central Wyoming), so it’s worth learning
    a thing or two. There are only black bear south of the Winds, so the need for an Ursack is ameliorated except
    for those with acute bearanoia.
    If 2024 is a big snow year in Montana, then be warned, there will most likely be hellacious blowdowns in
    the Bob Marshall Wilderness, and you may question your life choices.
    Its best to bring extra changes of socks for this section. Be sure to dry out your feet at least three times per
    day. Those that didn’t dry out their feet every 4 hours or so regretted it. Once you get to the Benchmark
    Ranch intersection, walk up to the Benchmark to pick up your food box if you were smart enough to send
    one there. If you weren’t, you need to hitch or shuttle a ride into Augusta or push on to Lincoln. There is
    no cell service around to call a shuttle, so you should do that a couple of days ahead when you are still in
    the Bob. Hitching is hard because the ranch is at the end of a dirt road. So if you arrive in the middle of the
    week, you may be SOL.
    One thing to keep an eye on is the dates of the annual rodeo in Augusta and Lincoln, they are usually in late
    June or early July. If you can swing it, it’s a really cool and authentic experience. The night before the rodeo
    provides an excellent opportunity to get drunk with real cowboys, as they traditionally party hard the night
    before.
    When returning back on trail from the Benchmark, take a close look at your Farout, there is a shortcut to
    get back on trail so you don’t need to backtrack.
    19
    BENCHMARK RANCH TO LINCOLN
    This is a pretty cool stretch of trail. You are finally doing some extended-duration ridgeline walking directly
    on top of the Continental Divide in the alpine, as opposed to hitting passes on the divide briefly before
    dropping back into a valley. This means you will experience extended exposure to any severe weather, and
    water can sometimes require a bit of a jaunt downhill off the divide… and what goes down, must come back
    up. As you approach Lincoln, there is a yurt on-trail that you can stay in if you want. It’s pretty cool to
    check out either way. Lincoln is a cool town, and you’re doing great so far, keep it up!
    LINCOLN TO HELENA OR ELLISTON
    Helena is by far a more popular choice than Elliston. In 2023, there was a trail closure that influenced my
    group’s decision to pop down into Elliston, so I know a bit about it. It’s tiny. It has a post office, general
    store, and a bar. The folks that run the general store are super friendly and may let you camp behind their
    store for free. You can hitch to Helena from Elliston; it’s just a bit further than if you hitch from the trailhead.
    Helena’s downtown is super cool, but their breweries close unreasonably early, so keep an eye out for that.
    If you miss out on the breweries, you can soothe your disappointment with some amazing ice cream. Yes,
    the ice cream joints are open later than the breweries. Download the Helena transit app; there are no
    established routes, it’s an on demand service at 85 cents per ride. Town is so spread out that you’ll be glad
    you did, especially if your lodging is far from the Wal Mart.
    HELENA TO BUTTE OR ANACONDA
    This section of trail presents your first big decision on what route you will take: the redline, anaconda cutoff,
    or the super butte/big sky. If you are thinking about taking the super butte as a southbound hiker, just know
    that everyone will judge you, at least until they start taking a bunch of shortcuts themselves. The super butte
    is not on Farout, see the resupply chart above for more details on how to get an online .gpx.
    The redline is supposed to be nice, and there is a cool stature of the Virgin Mary, but I don’t think this is
    top tier trail. When people discuss the highlights of the trail, the following are typically mentioned: Glacier
    Park, the Winds, Collegiate West, the San Juans, and the Gila low route. So in my mind, a person should
    do their best to try to hike those sections in the best conditions possible. All this being said, in my opinion,
    it makes sense to not do the redline here, but there are good arguments on both sides of the issue of whether
    to do the Anaconda Cutoff or the Super Butte. What will you miss if you take the Super Butte? Much of the
    Southern Montana/Idaho section (skipped by doing Super Butte) can be ugly and brutal, but the Anaconda-
    Pintler wilderness is scenic and worth doing. Will I ever go back and do it again? No. But I am glad I did
    it. I think taking the Anaconda Cutoff is the goldi-locks option. You skip just enough trail to ease your
    deadline of completing the San Juan mountains by October 1, but you don’t skip anything you’ll overly
    regret. That said, if you do take the Anaconda Cutoff, there is a less-than-enjoyable road walk into and out
    of town. Do you like shoulders on your highways, well you’ll have to look elsewhere. Many a yellow-
    blazer is born on the Anaconda cutoff.
    On the bright side, there is a trail angel just north of town, who has somehow managed to snag his own icon
    on Farout. If you keep walking south past his icon, you will arrive at the beautiful golden arches of
    McDonalds. Anaconda is awesome. Way cooler than the town of Butte on the redline. Butte is a superfund
    site (seriously the town surrounds a mining pit filled with toxic water). In my mind the only reason to go
    into Butte is to get your hands on some shoe replacements; great running store in Butte.
    In Anaconda, check out the hiker hut before you choose to pay to stay anywhere else. It’s a CDTC funded
    thing. If you can make it to town for the 4th of July, I hear its wild. I only made it there on the 5th ☹.
    20
    ANACONDA TO SULA/DARBY/WISDOM
    Pretty trail here. Pick your town to hitch into wisely, see town chart.
    SULA/DARBY/WISDOM TO LEADORE
    Super buggy here early July.
    LEADORE TO LIMA
    Do you like cows? More accurately, do you enjoy cow poo? If so you will love this section of trail. Oh, and
    if you also enjoy exposed, hot, hilly trail with little water? Then you will be ecstatic. Seriously, keep an eye
    on your water sources here or you can get a bit thirsty.
    LIMA TO MACK’S INN
    The trail is interesting again, phew. Some cool stuff here. I recommend taking the Mack’s Inn cutoff because
    it is super entertaining. Apparently a beaver decided that it would be a great idea to dam up a stream right
    about when the alt starts on the north side. Don’t be like me and start bushwhacking through the willows
    with thigh-high water attempting to follow the gpx. line. Instead, be smart. Follow the footpath to the left
    around the flooded area. Eventually this trail will disappear; this is ok. Even before the beavers made their
    contribution to the route, a good portion was cross country, but it’s not difficult. Essentially, you walk up a
    big hill with an air traffic control station on top, then on the back side of the hill you begin your descent to
    Mack’s Inn and reach a dirt road populated with lots of side-by-sides. The “town” of Mack’s Inn has a few
    places to rent these vehicles, and tourists love driving up those roads. After you walk into town, there is a
    subway, an RV Park, a grocery store, and a bar. What else do you need? Before leaving Mack’s Inn, you
    need to get your Yellowstone Permit sorted out (you only need to camp one night in the park between Old
    Faithful and Grant’s Village). You may need to hitch into West Yellowstone to get permits in person if you
    can’t sort it out on the phone. Old Faithful ranger station does not do permits.
    MACK’S INN TO OLD FAITHFUL
    This begins as a bit of a tough road walk on paved roads with fast cars, and then you start walking on snow
    mobile trails. There is one unmarked intersection here where you are supposed to just walk off into a random
    spot in the woods with no tread, so keep an eye out on your Farout. If you find this spot, you transition onto
    some weird old dirt road where there are large dirt mounts every few hundred feet, seemingly to discourage
    use by vehicles. There is very little water on this trail so take care with your water sources. There is one
    spot in particular where the water icon is in the wrong place and the comments were comically intricate on
    how to find the water…well, comical except I thought I might just die of thirst. If you find the water at this
    spot, and you’ll know where it is, the rest of the way to Yellowstone is smooth sailing.
    Camp just outside the park, if you are a rule-follower, and then hike over to Old Faithful in the morning.
    Lots of cool geothermal activity on the path to Old Faithful village. The village itself was packed with
    tourists. There are a few places to eat and buy tchotchkes. The beautiful and historic Old Faithful Inn is
    $500 per night roughly, but don’t be intimidated. The breakfast buffet inside is open and worth doing. If
    you walk up to the second floor there is a shaded viewing area open to the public that provides a great place
    to observe any Old Faithful eruption. Additionally, if you are a hiker of the outlaw variety, you can try to
    shower in the public bathrooms on the second floor. Or, if you’re even more bold, you can try the separate
    bath tub rooms for a good soak.
    I will say that the parts of Yellowstone on the redline are generally flat and boring with little wildlife of
    interest. The cool animals are in other areas of the Park. So if you want a full dose of Yellowstone, you need
    to get off-trail. That said, in my humble opinion, you would be better served by spending some extra time
    21
    hiking in the Tetons rather than Yellowstone, if you are open to spending extra time in the area. If I were
    king of the CDT, I would make the redline go through the Tetons. But I won’t lie, the logistical difficulties
    dissuade most from tackling the Tetons as part of their CDT thru-hike.
    OLD FAITHFUL TO GRANTS VILLAGE
    During my entire hiking career, the only day I have had to wear a bug net for the entire day was in this
    stretch of trail. Mosquitos were awful. I was on this stretch July 22-25, so be warned. At this time I was
    meeting the early trickle of pre-bubble Nobos who were all saying that the mosquitos in the Wind River
    range were terrible, but I had almost no mosquitos there when I arrived August 1, so basically just keep an
    eye out for skeeters in mid-to-late July wherever on the trail you happen to be at that time.
    Oh yeah, and I have never been so lost in a town as in Grants Village. There is no cell service and Farout is
    entirely unhelpful. Download a Google Maps of the area ahead of time. It’s basically a giant RV park that
    happens to technically be outside of Yellowstone Park proper, so you don’t need a permit to camp there.
    GRANTS VILLAGE TO DUBOIS
    Here, the main thing I remember is hiking the “old CDT” on Farout. I can’t speak to the difference between
    the old CDT and new CDT, but the comments tended to show that the new trail was pretty rough. So I stuck
    with the tried and true. This was a notoriously bad area for blowdowns in 2023. Hopefully, those will have
    been cleared up for you. These blowdowns inspired one disgruntled hiker to send an email to the forest
    service complaining about the trail maintenance. If you enjoy drama, I encourage you to seek out this
    comment and share a giggle.
    There is a Ley Alt shortcut that takes you down to a log crossing that features a 100+ foot fall into a canyon.
    I did this crossing and it was kinda fun, but statistically someone is probably going to die at some point
    doing this, so I would advise you to not be that person.
    Hopefully, this section of trail is dry for you. If it rains, then you will have a muddy slip-and-slide of a time.
    DUBOIS TO LANDER
    This was my absolutely, positively favorite section of trail. I will 100% be coming back to the Winds if I
    can. I have no words, well I do, but they’re inadequate. The redline is gorgeous, so don’t feel like a total
    failure in life if you only do the redline. But the alternate routes on Farout (Knapsack and Cirque) are both
    individually the best sections of trail in my opinion. They are difficult high routes through the mountains,
    and the Knapsack features some routefinding and cross country bits, but totally worth it in my opinion. I
    will note that the south side of the Knapsack was covered in more snow that I found in north Montana, and
    the only feasible way down was to glissade (aka slide down on your butt).
    It is worth asking any northbounders you see about the conditions on these routes to determine whether
    you, with your individual experience level, would require microspikes or an axe.
    If you want to get super crazy, I would also encourage you to research online the Alan Dixon and Skurka
    high routes. If you do these, I think it would be highly advisable to resupply at Big Sandy lodge or Pinedale.
    These high routes feature a big chunk of cross country travel, and you should be comfortable navigating
    off-trail if you want to do them.
    At the point where the Cirque of the Towers alt reconnects with the redline, there is a comically terrible
    chunk of trail. This area has lots of blowdowns, and the person setting the .gpx picked the worst possible
    22
    route through it. In fact, the mapped intersection marker for the intersection with the redline is in the middle
    of a shallow pool of water surrounded by blowdowns, and there is no trail anywhere to be seen.
    Ignore the Farout line route here and just trust your instincts. You almost certainly can’t do worse using this
    method.
    LANDER TO RAWLINGS
    Well, you’re in the Desert. If you want to set a personal speed record, this is the best place on trail to do it.
    Yes, there is also flattish desert in New Mexico, but you will have much less daylight by that time, so this
    is your best place.
    This section of trail is notable for a simple reality. There is no good single-track. The trail is either a dirt
    road, a dirt double-track, or cross country. Don’t be silly and follow the redline cross country through the
    desert, you’re just playing rattle-snake roulette. Be reasonable. Find little dirt roads to follow because there
    are plenty of them if you just look.
    Because this is desert, you will plan your day around water more than normal. Also keep in mind that not
    all water is created equal. Some viable water will have cow poop and dead animals in it. So read comments
    to assess water quality as well as quantity.
    As you approach Rawlings, there is a bunch of cross country trail to take you into town. I would advise
    doing the paved road-walk instead.
    Oh yeah, and if you want to pop into Denver, the only major metro area close to the CDT, there is a
    convenient bus route that runs frequently from Rawlings.
    RAWLINGS TO ENCAMPMENT
    Sure, you could be a hard-ass and skip Encampment. But then you’d have to miss a neat little town. To be
    honest with you, the trail to Encampment is also pretty deserty, so take the stuff above and apply it here.
    ENCAMPMENT TO STEAMBOAT
    Ya made it through the Basin, congrats! Time for the hardest state. Colorado will test you physically like
    nothing else so far on trail. Mostly because you will be at high elevation for a lot, ok, basically all of it once
    you pass midway between Grand Lake and Winter Park.
    This chunk of trail includes some of the easiest parts of Colorado, so don’t get cocky.
    STEAMBOAT TO GRAND LAKE
    Time for the roadwalk out of Steamboat. Some may say the Cebolla in New Mexico is the worst roadwalk
    on trail, but for a true connoisseur of paved walking, it’s hard to beat the stretch coming out of Steamboat.
    After this stretch you are going to approach Rocky Mountain National Park. There is a fantastic climb and
    drop down into the park. The East Troublesome fire in 2020 destroyed 350 homes in Grand County. The
    fire got right up to the edge of the town of Grand Lake, and you will see some evidence of this fire around.
    I am still unsure if you need a bear canister if you are just hiking through the park but not camping in it. I
    couldn’t be bothered to figure out the details. Obtaining the bear canister would require one to walk or hitch
    into town, obtain the canister, then walk or hitch back out and start hiking through the Park. I thought this
    was silly, so I just road walked into town and skipped the park. The Town of Grand Lake is cute and scenic.
    23
    GRAND LAKE TO WINTER PARK
    At first, this section of trail is mellow. You walk along flat terrain next to a series of beautiful lakes and the
    Fraser River, but then at the Devil’s Thumb, you get kicked up on top of the divide, and you won’t leave it
    for a few days. If you want some super extra credit, you can look up the alternate route called the Piffner
    Traverse. It is a similar difficulty to the Wind River High Routes explored earlier. As always when up on
    the divide, keep an eye on water sources and weather. Beautiful section of trail.
    There used to be a train that crossed over the divide at Rollins Pass from Denver down into Winter Park.
    At the time, there was a hotel constructed on top of the divide with a restaurant. This explains the mysterious
    Farout icon noting there is a “food court” on top of the divide. Don’t get your hopes up, it hasn’t been
    operational since 1927, which is a slow update…even for Farout.
    You get to bag a couple of 13ers on your way to Berthoud Pass (where you hitch into Winter Park). James
    Peak and Mt. Flora. There is a Ley alt shortcut between them that is one of the more spicy Ley Alts. If
    weather is good would recommend. There is a warming hut at Berthoud Pass with bathrooms. I hid there
    for a few hours from storms in great comfort before finding a ride down into WP.
    WINTER PARK TO BRECKENRIDGE
    If you do the redline, you get to do your first 14,000 foot mountain on the CDT (Gray’s peak). You can also
    bag Torrey’s peak, which is right next to Gray’s, should you so desire. Colorado has a pretty cool culture of
    peak bagging the 58 officially recognized 14ers. The cathedral of this culture is the 14ers.com website
    (https://www.14ers.com). Check it out! It’s a cool old-school web 1.0 site that is a fantastic community of
    peak baggers. They also have a very active and fun Facebook group if you want to get social. Tooting my
    own horn here, but as of this writing I have bagged 32/58.
    With my bona fides established, here is a piece of advice. If you are new to hiking 14ers in Colorado, make
    sure you have a good weather window to get to Breckenridge from Winter Park, as it will be risky to proceed
    with this route if you don’t have a good weather window. Based on data since 1980, lightning causes 2
    fatalities and 12 injuries each year in the state of Colorado. In 2023, a couple from Denmark hiking
    southbound was struck by lighting and had to go the hospital. They ended up being ok and finished the trail,
    but things can always end up differently depending on your luck.
    The best source for Weather in Colorado (or at least my favorite) is actually this random guy on Facebook
    who puts out a weather report. Look up “Seth’s Weather Report” on Facebook and give him a follow.
    The hard part of managing Colorado weather is that in the summer, you hit the monsoon season and you
    may see a small chance of lightening in the forecast every day. All this means is that you should look out
    for afternoon thunderstorms, and be able to seek shelter during them. By shelter, I mean be able to drop
    down below tree line (roughly 11,500 ft) to set up your shelter in a place with some wind protection, should
    that prove to be necessary. Some areas of trail between Winter Park and Breckenridge will not afford you a
    reasonably safe bailout option. Specifically, I am thinking of the Gray’s Peak to Argentine Spine route.
    Bailout options are not viable for much of this piece of trail. So for this, I would want a 3 day weather
    window that looks sunny with no big storms moving in from the West on the radar.
    If the forecast shows a chance of rain and storms above 70%, this is danger zone weather. And for me, that’s
    a no-go. Either hang out in Winter Park for a few days, or accept your fate and hike the Silverthorne Alt.
    Silverthorne is much lower, so much safer to do in suboptimal weather.
    24
    All that said, the hike up Gray’s is fantastic, the traverse over to Walker is a moderate class 2 if you don’t
    completely screw up the route-finding, and then the Argentine Spine is gorgeous and amazing as well. So
    it’s worth it if you properly manage the risks. Aside from weather, the hardest part of this bit of trail is the
    water situation. After you start climbing Gray’s there will be no water until you finish the Argentine Spine,
    unless you are open to melting snow from snowfields that are covered in mountain goat poop. But, this is
    the old CDT route, and if those yahoos with external frame packs wearing jeans and smoking Marlboro
    Reds could do it. You, in your trail runners, dyneema, and versalite gear eating kale chips can surely do it
    too.
    BRECKENRIDGE TO COPPER
    Fun little piece of trail that ends with a hot meal at the base of a ski resort, yum! This is the first ski resort
    you get to walk across in Colorado, but don’t worry, there will be two more to come later (Monarch and
    Wolf Creek). As you ascend out of Copper, there is a beautiful and highly scenic piece of trail marred only
    by the mountain bikes that plague the Colorado Trail….oh, I forgot to mention, just before you get into
    Breckenridge, you start hiking the Colorado Trail, and you will continue to hike that trail until about midway
    between Lake City and Pagosa Springs.
    This can come as a bit of a culture shock. Prepare yourself for huge Osprey pack laden people hiking 8 mile
    days, well-constructed bridges spanning tiny creeks, frequent trail blazes, actual marked trail intersections,
    and mountain bikers. Mountain bikers are at the top of the food chain on this trail, and your job is to do the
    best you can to get out of their way as they blow past you in a cloud of dust.
    COPPER TO LEADVILLE
    Leadville is a very cool town worth checking out. There is some cool history in this area. The ruins of Camp
    Hale (which you hike through) hosted the 10th Mountain Division during World War Two. The US Army
    created this unit during to WW2 to specialize in mountain warfare. The army taught these troops how to ski
    and fight in snowy mountains. The division saw 114 days of combat in Italy. After the war, the troops came
    back to the USA and supposedly founded 62 ski resorts, including Vail and Aspen.
    LEADVILLE TO TWIN LAKES
    I guess I will be saying this a lot, but this is another cool little town worth checking out. You don’t have to
    hitch if you walk into town and take the bypass around the lakes. As you leave this town you climb Hope
    Pass, which is one of the most ironically named passes in the Rockies. There is no hope on Hope Pass. As
    a pure physical challenge it’s up there with the hardest passes on trail. The wonderful psychos who run the
    Leadville 100 mile race have the pleasure of going up and down it twice!
    TWIN LAKES TO BUENA VISTA
    If you chose to take the Collegiate West high route (which you should if you can). You will be treated to
    another top 5 scenic section of trail. This is my fourth favorite section, just below the Winds, Glacier, and
    the San Juans. Really enough said with that. Oh, and if you accidentally take a wrong turn, you end up in
    the ghost town of St. Elmo, Colorado.
    BUENA VISTA TO SALIDA
    Salida was my favorite trail town. And the trail is very nice too.
    SALIDA TO LAKE CITY
    25
    The trail between Salida and Lake City is kind of blah. It becomes scenic again after you pass south of San
    Luis Peak. Around then, you will be deciding whether to take the Creed Cutoff, or do the full San Juans. I
    am sure you can guess my point of view on this by now. It’s worth doing the full monty if you can. Most
    people take the Creed. Lake City is a cool little town that is similar to Silverton in scale and with dirt roads,
    off road vehicles, and Texas license plates.
    LAKE CITY TO PAGOSA SPRINGS
    Similar to the Winds, hiking this section of trail was a spiritual experience. Too pretty for words, so I give
    up. That said, someone with an electric hedge trimmer needs to do battle with the willow branches
    overgrowing this trail. If they’re wet, or snowy and cold they can be a real menace.
    PAGOSA SPRINGS TO CHAMA
    This part of trail is also breathtaking. I have nothing to add.
    CHAMA TO GHOST RANCH
    Your last bit of trail over 12k feet and 11k feet are on this section of trail. The intensity of mountains and
    cold are winding down. Your new challenge…that really begins south of Cuba, will be finding water
    sources.
    GHOST RANCH TO CUBA
    Watch out for aggressive dogs on the edge of Cuba as you walk into town. Pick up some pepper spray from
    a hardware store when you are in Chama. If you don’t have any weapons, then remember a good size rock
    is a tried and true tool for self-defense against dogs.
    CUBA TO GRANTS
    I almost stepped on a rattle snake on this bit of trail. Keep an eye out.
    GRANTS TO PIE TOWN
    Do the Cebolla. Yes you’ll miss the lava fields. But hear me out here. If you do the lava fields you have a
    40+ mile water carry. Additionally, lava fields are basically just black rock. After five minutes walking on
    it, you will realize that the novelty of walking on black rock has rapidly dissipated, after which you will
    regret the fact that your next water source is in 44 miles. So yeah, would recommend the Cebolla.
    PIE TOWN TO DOC CAMPBELLS
    This is another top 5 trail highlight. The Gila river low route (middle fork) is amazing. The amount of wild
    life is staggering because there is not a lot of other water around for animals to use. There are ancient cliff
    dwelling ruins, and it’s so different and unique from the rest of the trail. Oh, and it was great not to have to
    worry about where my water source was going to be for a while.
    DOC CAMPBELLS TO SILVER CITY
    26
    I chose to road walk this, making my own way on what looked like the most direct route. I went through
    the town of Los Altos. I hear I didn’t miss too much, and Silver City is awesome and worth spending some
    time in to check out.
    SILVER CITY TO LORDSBURG
    You are almost done, call Tim Sharpe and set up your shuttle ride. I kind of checked out by this point
    because I don’t really like hiking in flat desert, so I was cruising along without paying attention to anything.
    Lordsburg is not a top trail town from an exploration standpoint. But it has an Amtrak stop, so it is useful
    as a transit point.
    LORDSBURG TO MEXICO
    If you are lucky you may get to see a border patrol chase here. There is an open gate right where the trail
    meets the border and people regularly cross and meet suspicious vehicles that drive them further into the
    US. I witnessed the aftermath of a border patrol chase that resulted in a flipped vehicle that had to be towed
    out of the desert on a flat bed. Tim will have some good stories if you inquire, as he spends a lot of time
    there.
    Oh, yeah. You are done, congratulations on needing to figure out what to do with the rest of your life.
    27
    APPENDIX 1- Super Butte/Big Sky Alternate
    By Oracle
    Why take the alt?
    My primary motivation in taking the Super Butte was to simplify resupply logistics. Lima and Leadore are
    famously annoying resupply stops. A lot of hikers take Anaconda to make a shorter food carry to Darby as
    well.
    Other common reasons are to cut miles, depending on the route you take, you cut about 250 miles off the
    red line or 150 off the Anaconda Cutoff. Especially relevant if you got a late start.
    Or just for a change of scenery. Aside from the Whitehall road walk, I found this to be some of my favorite
    hiking in Montana, after spending the last two weeks hiking through terrain that was beautiful but pretty
    much the same day after day with another 400 miles of similar terrain to look forward to, this alt provided
    a lot of much needed variance. High sage desert, rocky peaks with mountain goats, abandoned mining
    towns, touristy lake towns, etc.
    I also enjoyed the chance to be away from the Guthooks/Farout route, it added a little sense of adventure
    not knowing what was around every corner.
    Water wasn’t as much of a concern as I feared. The only section without good water was the road walk into
    and out of Whitehall. If you go through in a drought year this might not apply, obviously.
    Maps
    There is a gpx. track being passed around online, a quick search and you’ll find it in several different places.
    You’ll need some sort of non-Guthooks/Farout navigation app. Some people online recommend buying
    maps on Avenza, which I did, but I just ended up using the USGS topo maps on Gaia the whole time
    instead. My buddy used the Garmin app which worked well too. This is just a line people have drawn
    linking together various trails, forest roads, and actual roads. There are lots of different ways you can choose
    to go, this is just the route I ended up taking.
    Mileage changes depending on which route, map, or app you’re looking at but ballpark numbers are:
    I-15 crossing (Butte) to Whitehall – 35 miles
    Whitehall to Ennis – 60 miles
    Ennis to Big Sky – 45
    Big Sky to West Yellowstone – 52 miles
    Or
    Big Sky to Mammoth Village – 55 miles
    Helena or Butte to Whitehall
    35 miles
    28
    So you’ll resupply either in Helena or Butte via the I-15 crossing [mile 427]. Leaving I-15 you have about
    8 miles on the red line before turning at the Nez Perce trail junction [approx mile 435, there’s no junction
    icon on Guthooks], which is actually the old cdt route. You’ll be on nice single track for a while before
    getting onto a fairly well traveled orv track which turns into dirt road after maybe ten miles. Coming
    through on a weekend there were about 20 rvs parked in a field here so you could possibly yogi some water
    (or beer).
    Whitehall
    You’ll be road walking right through downtown. There’s a good grocery store, a few restaurants, and I
    didn’t stay there but people told us CDT hikers were invited to camp in the town hall/rec center.
    Whitehall to Ennis
    You’ve got about 20 miles of road walk through farmland before you get back on a trail. Traffic was chill,
    not much danger, and the locals were all really nice. I stopped at a farmhouse to refill my water since I’m
    sure the river and streams are full of agricultural runoff. I’m sure you could yellow blaze this without too
    much trouble. There’s a hot spring around two miles off ‘trail’ at the end of the road walk, it’s called Point
    of Rocks.
    After another chill 20 you’ll hit Mammoth, not really a town but a community of summer camps. Leaving
    Mammoth you’ll start climbing the Tobacco Roots where there are some cool old abandoned mines. ‘23
    was a low snow year and there was still a decent amount of snowpack in the pass. If snowpack is high when
    you come through then ice gear might be a good idea. The National Forest ends and the ranches start ten
    miles before the highway going in to Ennis, so you’ll either have to camp there or go all the way into Ennis.
    Ennis
    Ennis is a six mile hitch down the highway. Bozeman is about an hour drive in the other direction too. The
    locals all seem to know and love CDT hikers. Apparently, Ennis is a very popular fishing destination
    (months later when I was in NM I saw tourist brochures for Ennis) so there are a selection of decent priced
    motels, restaurants, and a grocery store.
    Ennis to Big Sky/ Bozeman
    You’ll be following the High Lakes trail through the Spanish Peaks, beautiful single-track but hard to follow
    at times. Also, there are lots of lakes and you’re high up. Heads up… this section seemed to be about ten
    miles longer than the gpx claims. More potential snow hazards in a high snow year as you cross the last
    pass heading into Big Sky. The other side of the pass is a well-used day/overnight hiking trail leading into
    downtown Big Sky
    Big Sky
    Big sky is expensive, even by ski resort standards, but there is a grocery store and plenty of
    restaurants. More importantly there’s an hourly $5 bus running to Bozeman where there’s a hostel,
    Walmart, REI, etc. Plus you get to see the famously wretched hive of scum and villainy of “Bozeangeles”
    that everyone in Montana has told you about. If you have thruhiked before then I guarantee someone you
    knew on your last trail moved to Bozeman after finishing their hike so social engineer your way to crashing
    on someone’s couch.
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    Big Sky to Yellowstone
    This is where you’ve got a few choices. Head straight to West Yellowstone and get back on the red line,
    which is the most common option. I didn’t go this way. There are a few different routes but they all seem
    pretty straightforward.
    Alternatively, you can head southeast, straight into Yellowstone NP. I took the route SE over the Gallatin
    Range and entered YNP, hitching out from Mammoth Hot Springs to resupply at nearby Gardiner. The
    section from Big Sky to Mammoth was really cool, it follows the Sky Rim trail with great views into
    Yellowstone. My plan was to hike south from Mammoth to Old Faithful but I wouldn’t recommend it. Most
    of it is road walking and it’s a sketchy, very busy, no shoulder, windy mountain road. There were a few
    places you can get off the road and hike but a bunch of trails and campsites were closed. It’s just not an
    area the park wants you to hike through; they don’t devote any resources to hiking in this section. I hiked
    about half of the 60 or so miles before bailing on the road walk and yellow blazing down to Old Faithful. It
    is a really cool route as you pass through a bunch of thermally active areas that are all way cooler than what
    you’ll see on the red line, but unless you have a car it’s a hassle.
    You can also head east from Mammoth Village and get on the Thoroughfare Trail. This is supposed to be
    a really cool hike. Most of the wildlife is supposed to hang out on the east side of the park away from the
    tourists so this is your best bet to see Bison, Grizzlies, etc. but you’ll be missing all the cool geothermally
    active areas. In any case I didn’t take this route so I can’t really speak to it.
    Yellowstone
    One tip for Yellowstone, if you have trouble getting permits, is to hitch to front country sites at Madison
    Junction and Grant Village. They have walk up hike in/ bike in site that multiple people told us they always
    find spot for CDT hikers no matter how full they are.
    30
    APPENDIX 2- Pindeale Alt
    By Oracle
    Why take the alt
    You’d take this alt primarily to resupply to reduce your food weight through the Winds, especially for the
    Knapsack Col Alternate. Knapsack is, in my opinion, the most challenging and rewarding single section on
    the entire CDT, so having an essentially empty pack for it is huge. Taking the alt adds about 20 miles.
    Pinedale is also one of, if not the most welcoming towns on the CDT. The visitor center has a whole CDT
    room where you can charge, leave packs, or just chill. They have backpackers pantry meals, granola bars,
    stickers, patches, etc. to give away as well as a hiker box. They also give you a $10 pass to the rec center
    which has a pool, hot tub, water slide, rock wall, etc!
    There is a full grocery, great outfitter with trail log, hostel, brewery, restaurants, etc.
    Green River Lake trailhead
    You can get to town from here but it’s 20 or 30 miles down a dirt road so hitching isn’t the easiest plus
    you’ll still be carrying your resupply up Knapsack if you go into town here.
    Maps
    You can get away with using the topo maps on Guthooks. They don’t cover the whole area of the side trail
    but this is a very trafficked and marked area so you shouldn’t run into much trouble. Downloading the area
    in a separate mapping app e.g. Gaia or Garmin works too.
    The Alt
    So whether you take the red line or Knapsack you’ll come to the Seneca Lake trail junction [mile 1173.1]
    Take this 11 miles down to the trail head, at some point this trail will become Pole Creek trail. This trailhead
    is huge and busy at least during the summer. I’m talking 100 cars parked and they were doubling the parking
    space when I came through. Hitching was easy. We got a ride from a local who told us he picks up hikers
    multiple times a week. Hitching back out you might have to break it into 2 legs, one ride out of town on the
    highway and another hitch up the side road to the actual trailhead but you really shouldn’t have much
    trouble. Check Guthooks/Farout since there are two local thruhikers (Rerun and Irish) who were trail angel-
    ing and giving rides.
    To hike back out you’ll take Pole Creek trail to Highline Trail 14 miles to meet back up with the red line at
    Again this is all very busy, well-traveled, marked, and maintained trail so you should not have
    mile 1177.6. much trouble.
    31
    APPENDIX 3 – Creede Alt
    By Oracle
    Why take the Creede Cutoff
    To cut out about 65 miles of high altitude hiking in the San Juans, whether it’s because you didn’t beat the
    snow or, like me, you’re just tired of being up so high all the time. Remember if you take the brown line
    you’ll still be hiking almost half of the San Juans anyway. Also you’ll carry a day less food from Salida
    and two days less into Pagosa Springs.
    If the weather is really scary you can bailout of taking the San Juan section south of Creede by taking the
    road walk out of town (blue line) and hooking up with the GDMTB route (green line). This alt is in
    Guthooks so I don’t need to add much.
    It’s about a mile down the side trail to the trail head and then it’s a dirt road walk into Creede. There’s a
    spring beside the road around 12 miles in. Creede is a cool old mining turned tourist town. Check out the
    old mines and stop by the underground mining museum. The grocery store is small but well stocked and
    amazingly cheap. You can camp on the baseball field or stay at thruhiker John Lawley’s donation hostel.
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